![]() ![]() This is the MOST CRITICAL step of this repair, creating precise alignment (a seat) for the tooling bit to stay on center and not follow the angular broken surface of the stud. While applying light pressure, activate your drill both on and off five times in one second intervals (ten times if utilizing an air ratchet). SET THE CUTTING EDGE: Important step to avoid drill bit breakage. (This will ensure the cutting edge is not damaged.) *Repeat this procedure for each sequential step in your applicationĤ. Insert the prepared ProDrill™ into the mounted ProBushing™ by slowly and manually turning the drill chuck until the ProDrill™ slips into the bushing and makes contact with the surface of the damaged stud. Apply one drop of ProLube™ (PPL001).ĪVOID USING PENETRATING OIL/SPRAY OR OTHER LUBRICANTS WHICH ELEVATE CUTTING EDGE TEMPERATURES CAUSING THE BIT TO BURN AND CEASE CUTTING.ģ. Using drill depth gauge, machined into the ProPlate™, set the proper depth of the bit and mark if necessary. Then insert the corresponding ProDrill™ machine grade tooling bit (included) into an air-powered, angled-style drill. Insert the ProBushing™ into the ProPlate™. Torque ProFasteners to a minimum of 20 FT-LBS.Ģ. Mount the ProPlate™ to the cylinder head using the included ProFasteners (PPF008375 or PPF008500) according to the enclosed cylinder head schematic. I've done my share of FE manifolds and I hated every one of them.FORD 4.2 V6, 4.6L/5.4L V8, 6.8L V10 FIX BROKEN EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUD - ROCKYġ. The rust scale on the threads can wedge in the threads as they are backed through the bolt hole even after they have broken loose. If the bolts come all the way through the flange with threads showing, wire brush the exposed threads. You want a temp differential between the bolt and the head with the head being the highest expanding more than the bolt. If you dilly dally the heat will migrate into the bolt. Ideally you only want to heat the ear and not the bolt that is why you need to act quickly when the ear gets cherry red. Heating the ear of the head causes the hole to expand which loosens the hold. Once it's broken and cooled, I use penetrating oil after they are broken loose to keep the bolt from seizing and snapping off on the way out. I use a torch to get the ear on the head cherry red and then immediately use a 6 point socket to break them loose. They love to round off leaving very little for a tool to grip on. The factory bolts have a recess in the middle of the bolt head. A 12 point socket or box end wrench is flirting with disaster until the bolt has broken loose. It will creak and moan but this method will take off tons of stuck stuff.ĭon't even try to remove the factory bolts until you have a 6 point socket. Heat the part cherry red and whiloe it is still hot, THEN loosen it while it is still hot. A lot of heat will usually work 99% of the time. Some heat will help, try loosening them when the engine is hot.ĥ. A good sharp whack with a hammer on the end of the bolt will sometimes shock the rusty threads loose.Ĥ. Stop, retighten until it's easy and the rust is worked out, THEN reloosen.ģ. Don't keep loosening it as it gets harder. If it does start to turn, it will get tighter as the rust jambs the threads. ![]() ![]() Try to loosen, then tighten, then loosen use.Ģ. Of course a good oil like PB Blaster should accompany all of these methods.ġ. ![]() Some of them may or may not ber possible on every application but try what you can. Not meaning that they will all work, but if you use ALL of them, you will have a muich better chance of getting them out without breaking them. There are several tips to get them to break free. ![]()
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